The region of Ladakh is situated in the northernmost part of India. It is an array of landforms shaped by extreme climatic conditions and unique geomorphological setting. This cold desert— characterized by its rugged topography, presents a beyond-imagination landscape that is both visually striking and scientifically significant. The plateau terrain is sculpted over millennia by geological processes. It always provides a diverse range of geomorphic formations where each one narrates the complex history of tectonic shifts, erosions and sediment deposition.
For researchers and enthusiasts of geomorphology, Ladakh is an unparalleled field site. Its landforms are molded by the interaction of wind, water and ice. It provides a deeper perspective of the combined natural forces that have shaped some of the most inhospitable yet visually-appealing terrains on the Planet. The region’s isolation when combined with its varied geomorphological features also makes it a valuable location for studying the impacts of climate and environmental changes on landscape evolution.
During my recent visit to Ladakh, I managed to document its several prominent desert landforms. As I journeyed through the scenic valley of River Sindh from Kangan to Sonmarg, the landscape began to exhibit subtle changes— reflecting its location within the Kashmir Valley. Here, the mountains present moderate gradients, draped in lush green forests and abundant vegetation. Upon reaching the Sonmarg meadow, the quintessential Himalayan landscape reveals itself. Towering above the meadow are two imposing Thajiwas peaks, between which a prominent glacier was distinctly visible, which offered a striking contrast against the golden expanse of the meadow below.
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| Thajiwas Glacier as seen from Sonmarg | Photo: Ajaz A Khawaja |
Continuing from Sonmarg, as one ascends towards Zojila Pass, above the Baltal camp—established for the pilgrims visiting the sacred Amarnath Cave—the dramatic transformation of the landscape becomes increasingly apparent. Here, nature's grandeur is on full display, with towering, wall-like mountains framing the path. Zojila Pass (3528 meters ASL) acts as a significant transitional phase— marking the boundary between the verdant Kashmir Valley and the arid, cold desert of Ladakh. The vibrant green that characterizes the Kashmir valley begins to fade as the ascent progresses. By the time you reach Gumri, the contrast between the two faces of the Himalayas is stark: looking back toward Sonmarg reveals a landscape rich in greenery, while shifting your gaze toward Minimarg— situated within Ladakh— unveils a barren, desert-yellow terrain.
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| Baltal Base Camp | Photo: Ajaz A Khawaja |
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| Wall-like snowy massif rising dramatically from the landscape, as seen from Gumri | Photo: Ajaz A Khawaja |
One notable observation during this journey is the altitude gained from Sonmarg to the top of Zojila Pass is far greater than the altitude lost upon descending into Drass. This is because Ladakh, geographically classified as a plateau, maintains an average elevation of 3,000 meters— even higher than the tallest peak in mainland India, Anamudi, which stands at 2695 meters. This implies that even if Drass Town, or any other settlement within Ladakh, were considered a peak, it would still surpass the elevation of the highest peak in mainland India.
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| Green cover fading away as the road winds from Drass to Kargil | Photo: Ajaz A Khawaja |
Upon reaching Drass, the transformation is complete, with the green cover entirely absent, welcoming travellers into the stark, mesmerizing landscape of Ladakh's cold desert.
As the journey continued along the pristine waters of the Suru River of District Kargil, the landscape grew increasingly fascinating until reaching NamikaLa Pass, where the remarkable desert topography featured Inselberg. Inselbergs, also called monadnocks, are isolated hills or mountains rising abruptly from the surrounding plain. They form through the erosion of surrounding softer materials, leaving these resistant rock formations exposed.
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| An Inselberg |
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| More Inselbergs |
Continuing from the NamikLa Pass to the FotuLa Pass, the landscape remained equally captivating. FotuLa Pass is the highest point on the Srinagar-Leh highway, standing at an elevation of 4115 meters (13,479 feet). The mountains appear as though sculpted by a master artisan over millennia and now revealed in their full grandeur. Along this route, another intriguing desert feature was the Demoiselles—tall, slender rock formations with mushroom-like caps. These formations arise through erosion, where softer rock beneath a harder cap erodes away— leaving the distinctive, delicate columns. Other highlights of this pass include the pyramidical peaks that can be seen along the horizon.
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| Pyramidical peak rising sharply into the sky, as seen from Fotu La Pass | Photo: Ajaz A Khawaja |
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| Moonland formations near Lamayuru | Photo: Ajaz A Khawaja |
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| Demoiselles |
While the entire landscape of Ladakh is unparalleled in its beauty, my personal favourite landforms are found along the route from Nyoma to Hanle. Here, the Indus River forms notable meandering—a process where the river curves left and right in search of slope and sediment deposition. En route Hanle, home to India’s first high-altitude dark-sky observatory, one encounters a spectacular array of landforms: isolated conical hills, endless plains along the Indus River with mountains glowing golden in the evening light, and the black-necked cranes in the Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary. These cranes inhabit high-altitude wetlands, averaging 1.2 meters in height and weighing about 4.5 to 6.5 kilograms. They are distinguished by their striking black necks and white bodies. Returning from Hanle at night accentuated the region’s desolation and wilderness— transforming it into a stargazers' paradise— unspoiled by light pollution due to the absence of human settlements for miles. |
| A Black-necked crane in Changthang Wildlife Scantury along Indus river | Photo: Ajaz A Khawaja |
Traveling to the world-renowned Pangong Lake reveals a stunning display of natural architecture. A dried-up river just a few kilometers before reaching the lake provides a mesmerizing sight. The double-lane road cutting through steep mountains is no less than an engineering marvel. The first glimpse of Pangong Lake, a few kilometers before arrival, elevates the experience to euphoric heights. Upon reaching Pangong, its striking bluish hue—resulting from the reflection of the sky—is truly breath-taking. If visited on a cloudy day, this vivid colour may be obscured. The lake’s crystal-clear waters, along with ripples or small currents stirred by the wind, add to its allure. Pangong Lake is a brackish, endorheic lake situated at an elevation of 4350 meters (14,270 feet). It is formed through tectonic activities and glacial melt. Spending more time at the lake allows for exploration along its shores to Maan and Mirach villages, where the scenic peaks of Pangong Mountain Range offer appealing views with every turn.
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| First view of the Pangong Lake | Photo Ajaz A Khawaja |
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| A patrol boat leaving behind a ripple trail in the still waters of Pangong Lake | Photo: Ajaz A Khawaja |
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| Morning sun-kissed Pangong Lake shimmering with golden hues | Photo: Ajaz A Khawaja |
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| Fishtail Peak formation in the Pangong Range | Photo: Ajaz A Khawaja |
Khardung La Pass, formerly recognized as the world’s highest motorable pass until surpassed by Umling La Pass, presents an array of intriguing physiographic features. At the summit, one can observe prominent cirques, arêtes, and horns—landforms sculpted by glacial activity. A cirque is a U-shaped, steep-walled depression formed by glacial erosion. An arête is a sharp, jagged ridge created between two cirques. A horn is a pointed peak formed where multiple cirques intersect.
As you descend from Khardung La Pass towards Nubra Valley, alluvial fans become visible—these are fan-shaped deposits of sediment that accumulate at the base of mountains where a river spreads out and loses velocity. The confluence of the Nubra and Shyok rivers along the route provides a clear example of river confluence, where two rivers merge to form a single channel. The white sand dunes of Hunder, with their shifting sands, exemplify another desert feature in Ladakh. Here, barchans—the crescent-shaped sand dunes formed by wind movement—constantly change shape due to the prevailing winds.
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| Formation of an Alluvial Fan along Shyok river | Photo: Ajaz A Khawaja |
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| Sky-high peaks of the Karakoram Range | Photo: Ajaz A Khawaja |
As I made my way down KhardungLa pass, I glimpsed the Karakoram Range from North Pullu and saw some of the highest peaks on the planet, including Saser Kangri which is the highest peak in the Saser Muztagh subrange of the Karakoram Range. It reaches an elevation of 7,672 meters (25,171 feet). This is the tallest peak I have ever laid my eyes on.
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| Mount Saser Kangri (7672m ASL) |
Traveling further upslope along the Nubra River, you will encounter numerous alluvial fans emerging from the mountains. As you proceed towards the Siachen Base Camp, the already sparse vegetation, human activity, and wildlife diminish rapidly. To your surprise, the Eurasian Magpie, a striking bird with its black and white plumage, can be spotted around the sparse human settlements. The bird known for its adaptability, often inhabits open country and edge habitats. Traveling along the lesser-taken route from Tangtse to Chushul offers an entirely unique experience. This road remains quiet and is also rarely explored by bikers— for whom Ladakh is Mecca. On this route, frequent encounters with the Kiang wild ass are almost guaranteed. The Kiang, known for its reddish-brown coat and seasonal fur shedding, inhabits the high-altitude plains of Ladakh, making it well-suited to this cold desert environment. Soon, you will reach Kaju-Kongta-La Pass, standing at 5067 meters (16,626 feet). Upon reaching the pass, you might not even realize you are atop a mountain pass—it feels more like standing in an endless plain. Well, Ladakh is a table-land after all!
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| Eurasian Magpie perched near the Siachen Basecamp | Photo: Ajaz A Khawaja |
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| Mother-son duo of Kiang wild ass striking a pose for the perfect shot | Photo: Ajaz A Khawaja |
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| Signboard at Kaju-Kongta-La Pass, in a setting that looks nothing like a mountain pass | Photo: Ajaz A Khawaja |
As you ascend from Chushul, the terrain takes a steep turn through a series of sharp curves leading up to Kaksang-La Pass, sitting at 5443 meters (17858)—the 8th highest motorable pass in the world. Just before reaching Kaksang-La, you will be greeted by the striking green waters of Mirpal Tso which is an oligotrophic lake. These lakes are characterized by low nutrient levels, resulting in clear water and limited aquatic life.
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| Me striking a pose on the shores of Mirpal Tso, looking like I’m auditioning for the role of “world’s most rugged model” |
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| Desolated road crossing the Kaksang La Pass | Photo: Ajaz A Khawaja |
Crossing Kaksang-La, you will experience a rapid descent, with the stunning peak of Chakula, towering at 6534 meters (21,434 feet), coming into view across the ridge—a true highlight of my Ladakh journey. As the descent continues, the landscape transforms dramatically, and soon, the drive feels like traversing the Planet Mars, with the red sandstone mountains of Mahe village dominating the terrain.
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| Mighty Chakula Peak | Photo Ajaz A Khawaja |
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| Martian landscape of Nyoma with a pitch-black highway cutting through its otherworldly terrain | Photo: Ajaz A Khawaja |
Crossing the Martian landscapes of Mahe and Nyoma, you will find yourself en route to one of Ladakh’s most enchanting destinations—the Puga Plains. This area is renowned for its geothermal hot springs, where water gushes out due to the subsurface heating caused by the Earth's geothermal activity. These hot springs are formed when groundwater is heated by the Earth’s internal heat, rising to the surface, bringing with it minerals like sulphur. The spring’s distinct rotten egg smell is a result of the high sulphur content— a characteristic of geothermal activity in the valley.
Puga Valley is a lush green meadow-like "dun" (a longitudinal valley). It is divided into two by a freshwater stream flowing through its center. The valley is dotted with small dunes called moss mounds—formed when mosses accumulate and grow in mounds due to moist, cool conditions over time. These grass-covered mounds are a favourite among travellers, who often enjoy leaping from one to another. This destination is also an ideal campsite if you are equipped with tents and other camping gear— offering a serene and scenic retreat in the heart of Ladakh.
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| Me chilling by the fresh stream in Puga Valley. |
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| Moss Mounds | Photo: Ajaz A Khawaja |
Ladakh will forever hold a special place in the hearts of those much-lucky travelers who have traversed through its mesmerizing landscapes. The crystal-clear waters reflecting bluish hue of skies above, leave an indelible mark on your soul— making every moment a cherished one. As time passes, the vivid imagery of Ladakh—its golden plains, snow-clad peaks, and serene lakes—will tug at your heartstrings for years to come.
A trip to Ladakh is not just a journey on desolated pitch-black roads; it is more of an immersive geography lesson. The varied landforms—ranging from the alluvial fans of sandy Nubra Valley to the serpentine movement of Indus River, the conical hills of Hanle, and the tectonically formed Pangong Lake basin—are like chapters from a geography textbook. The geothermal springs of Puga Plains, the Martian landscapes of Nyoma and the towering peaks like Chakula reveal the powerful geological forces that have shaped this high-altitude desert. Ladakh is more than just a destination; it is a place that stays with you— reminding you of the world’s raw beauty and the deep connection between nature and the human spirit.
About the Author: Ajaz Ahmad Khawaja is a school teacher who recently traveled to Ladakh and captured images of its diverse landforms. He can be reached here.
Pir Panjal Post is a blogging outlet which aims at educating people and creating awareness on the issues concerning human society like Education, Politics, Economics, Science, art and literature. The main focus of this blog is on encouraging the budding writers, poets, painters, calligraphers, photographers etc. Besides, it intends to serve the vernacular languages.
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